Instruction
Get the Seeds
First, you need to get your seeds from a good source. I prefer
online seed stores that accept PayPal, but this is just my
personal preference. You can find tomato seeds in the garden
center at places like Wal-Mart and Lowes. I buy mine from
Tomatobob.com, who sells only heirloom seeds.
Research the seed company you are buying from to make sure they
are reputable and that you will get good seeds from them. I'm an
heirloom grower, but you can choose to grow either heirlooms,
hybrids, or some of each.
When to Plant the Seeds
Tomatoes are typically sown 6 to 8 weeks before the last
anticipated frost. Some say to sow them later, more like 5 weeks
before the last frost, but either will work. Keep in mind that the
earlier you start, the larger the plants will be when you plant
them out.
To find your average last frost date, go to
this website
I live in Middle Tennessee and start my seeds in mid- to
late-February.
Start the Seeds
Use seed starting mix, such as Miracle Gro or Jiffy Mix, to start
your seeds. Fill a bowl with some mix and knead in some water till
the mix is saturated but not soggy.
I use egg cartons to start my seeds in. You can use either the
clear plastic or Styrofoam cartons; do NOT use the paper ones.
Fill the trays with seed mix and firm the mix down into the cells.
If you are growing multiple varieties, you will need a labeling
system to keep track of what tray contains what variety. Use tape,
plant tags, etc to mark the trays. Be creative - do whatever works
best for you to keep track of the varieties. Plant the seeds about
1/4 inch deep, 2 seeds per cell. I use a pencil with the tip
broken off to make a 1/4" deep hole in the center of each cell,
and I drop 2 seeds into each hole and firm the mix around the
seeds to completely cover them.
Germination
Keep your trays moist and warm to speed germination. Loosely fit
plastic wrap over the tops of the trays, to keep water in but
still allow for air circulation. Light is not required to
germinate seeds.
In anywhere from 3 to 15 days, you should start to see tiny
seedlings emerge. When your seedlings are up and the first 2
leaves (cotyledon leaves) start to open, you will need to put your
seedlings under a light. Use a cheap fluorescent shop light for
your seedlings. I use 4' fixtures that take 2 bulbs each. You can
use regular fluorescent tubes, or ones specially made for plants.
I use GE "Plant & Aquarium" tubes in my fixtures.
It's very important to keep your seedlings within 4" of the
lights, preferably closer. If you keep the light too far from the
seedlings, they will get very "leggy" - tall and skinny - and
might collapse. Keep the seed starting mix moist but not soggy,
and water whenever the surface becomes dry to the touch (but NOT
completely dry).
Care for the Young Seedlings
Keep the seedlings watered - not overwatered, but don't let them
get so dry they wilt, either.
Make sure they are kept within 4" of the grow light(s). You can
adjust the chain that the light hangs from, or you can put the
seedling trays on books or boxes to adjust their distance from the
light.
Make sure your grow light setup is in a room where it won't get
too hot (80+ deg F) or too cold (below 50 deg F). You will want
the seedlings to be easily accessible, because you will be
watering them often (every couple days). Monitor your seedlings
and make sure they are growing well. The cotyledon leaves should
grow up to 1 inch wide each, and should be a healthy green color.
Damping off can be a problem - this is a disease that causes young
plants to collapse at the soil line and die. If any of your
seedlings damp off, remove the infected plants and the mix they
grew in to prevent spreading the disease to other plants.
Care for the Young Seedlings
When your tomato seedlings are showing their first set of true
leaves, it's time to put them in individual pots. I use 16-ounce
disposable plastic cups. These work well and are cheap. Fill the
cups with Miracle Gro Potting Mix or similar potting mix. I use
Miracle Gro because it eliminates the need to apply fertilizer
manually. Use a pencil to make a hole in the center of the mix in
each cup. The hole should be about 1 inch wide and 3-4 inches
deep. Choose the best seedlings to pot up, and discard the rest.
If you pot up more than you can grow in your garden, just give
away the extra plants when they are bigger. Carefully loosen the
seed starting mix around your chosen seedlings. Gently scoop out
each seedling, being careful not to damage the roots or stem. Tap
off excess mix from the roots so they will fit easily into the
hole you
made in the mix in the larger cups. Do this one at a time, and
when a seedling has been uprooted, put it in the larger cup
immediately. Firm the potting mix around the roots and the stem of
each seedling. Bury the stem all the way up to the cotyledon
leaves - roots will grow from the stem and benefit the plant.
Label your cups with the variety name of each plant. I write on
the side of the cup with a Sharpie. Thoroughly water all the cups.
Make sure you don't splash potting mix all over the seedlings when
you water them. When the seedlings are all potted up, put them
under the grow light(s) and keep them within 4-5 inches of the
lights.
Planting Out
When the danger of frost has passed, it's time to get the plants
out in the garden. Your garden should be tilled ahead of time, and
adding compost is good. Soil pH should be from 6 to 7 (slightly
acidic to neutral) for tomatoes. Dig a trench about 1 foot long,
with one end deeper than the other. Carefully remove the plant
from its pot and loosen the root ball. Place the root ball in the
deeper end of the trench, and lay the seedling on its side with
the stem in the trough. Remove all the leaves from the part of the
stem that is in the trench, and leave the top few leaves on where
they will be above the ground. Bury the roots and bare stem in the
trench, leaving only the top few leaves sticking out. Don't worry
about their being sideways - the plant will correct itself and
grow upwards within a few days.
Trenching plants allows roots to develop along the entire buried
portion of the stem. They say this increases yields - I haven't
done any tests of my own but it makes sense. More roots allow for
more nutrients to be absorbed. Repeat the trenching process to all
your plants, keeping them spaced at least 2 feet apart (if you
plan on pruning) or 3-4 feet apart (if you won't be pruning). When
all the plants are trenched, water them thoroughly and add mulch
if desired. Drive stakes or cages into the ground, making sure you
don't puncture the buried stem.
Care in the Garden
Your tomato growing spot should receive at least 6 hours of sun a
day for good yields. I only get at most 5 hours a day, but my
plants sill produce fairly well. Keep the plants watered, but not
overwatered. Don't let them dry out or inconsistently water them.
Not enough water can cause fruit problems like Blossom End Rot,
and overwatering can cause the fruit to crack.
To prune your plants, pinch off the suckers (shoots that come out
from between each leaf and the main stem). You can let a few
suckers grow for more fruit per plant, but as a general rule, the
more fruit you allow, the smaller they will be. Last year I let
one sucker grow on each plant for a total of 2 stems per plant.
The rest of the suckers were pinched off as they grew. If you
prune your plants, tie the stems to a stake. If you don't prune
them, you can let them sprawl on the ground or place tomato cages
around the plants.
Harvest
You should start getting ripe fruit anywhere from 2 to 4 months
after planting out in the garden. Different varieties have
different DTM (days to maturity), so some will ripen 70 days after
transplanting and some will ripen late, 100 days or more. Usually
when you purchase seed, the description will tell you the DTM.
You can cut or twist the fruit off when it is fully colored. Some
heirloom varieties ripen green or have green shoulders when ripe;
Google the varieties you are growing to see what they look like
when ripe.
From this point forward, it's mostly watering and picking fruit
till the season ends.
Tips and best practices
Choose the sunniest spot available, as tomatoes need ample sun to produce fruit
Use well-draining soil rich in organic matter, with a slightly acidic to neutral pH level.
Give plants room to grow by planting them 30 to 48 inches apart, ensuring good airflow and light penetration.
Bury about two-thirds of the tomato seedling's stem when planting to encourage stronger root growth.
Aim for 1-2 inches of water per week, providing more during hot weather.
Water deeply 1-2 times per week rather than a little bit daily, and always water the soil around the base of the plant to keep the leaves dry.
Drip irrigation: is an effective method for consistent, directed watering.
Avoid dry-outs: Do not let the soil dry out completely between waterings, as this can lead to cracked fruit and blossom end rot.
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch (like pine shavings or compost) to retain soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, and control weeds.
Provide support for your tomato plants to keep them upright as they grow and produce fruit.
Tomatoes are heavy feeders, so fertilize regularly with a high-potassium, balanced fertilizer once the first fruits start to swell.
Regular harvesting: encourages the plant to produce more fruit.